Full Floating Canvas v. A Fused Canvas – Bespoke Suits
One of the most important features of a bespoke suit is a full floating canvas.
With all ready to wear (RTW)/Off-The-Peg suits you’ll find that they will come with a fused canvas. This is a canvas which is fused to the suit.
Infact, many tailors in London will used a fused canvas in their made to measure or bespoke suits. That’s why it’s important to ask your tailor whether they will be using a floating canvas and if so, to ask further whether it will be a half or full floating canvas.
Furthermore, with a fused canvas, where the suiting material moves to, the fused canvas material will go with it as they are stuck and fused together. However, with a full floating canvas there is more movement in the suit (as the canvas moves individually) and over time the full floating canvas will mold to the contours of your body shape. In addition, a full floating canvas will also allow the suit to drape better and should breath better as there is no glue.
With a fused canvas, you’ll find that your suit contains a lot of glue holding the canvas in place which holds the canvas to the suiting fabric. This is why under heat (dry cleaning) or in the rain, such RTW/Off-The-Peg suits can start to lose their shape or become ruined. This is why typically a bespoke suit will last longer when dry cleaned. We have commented on dry cleaning before in one of our earlier blogs on the two week wardrobe. A full floating canvas will also allow the suit to drape better.
Infact, on Wikipedia there is an article on ‘suit (clothing)’ which confirms that a few tailors in London argued with the ASA (advertising standards authority) that all bespoke suits should use a floating canvas. Sadly, the ASA rejected this proposal and went for a generic interpretation of the word bespoke allowing many tailors to call their suits ‘bespoke suits’ event though they don’t have the traditional characteristics of a bespoke suit.